The choice comes down to three things: whether the slab is still supported, how much of it is damaged, and how long you plan to own the house. The dollar amounts in these situations are the ones customers quote to us in their questions. They are not our prices.
The price ranges on this page are national figures that HomeGuide published for 2026. They are not quotes from us. Labor rates, ready-mix prices, access to the yard and how wet or sloped the ground is all move a Clark County job up or down. Last checked October 2026.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace concrete?
It is cheaper to repair today, and sometimes cheaper to replace over ten years. National figures put leveling at $3 to $12 per square foot and resurfacing at $3 to $7. Removal plus a new driveway is $9 to $23 per square foot when you add the two published ranges. Repair wins when the slab is solid and the cause is fixed. Replacement wins when more than about a third of the slab is broken or the base is bad.
My driveway is 20 years old and one section sank by the garage. I was quoted $9,000 to replace it all. Do I need to?
Probably not all of it. A 20-year-old driveway with one low section by the garage usually has one local problem: the backfill along the foundation has settled, or a downspout has been soaking it. If the other panels are level and uncracked, lifting or replacing that one section costs a fraction of $9,000. Ask the contractor to explain what is wrong with the panels that have not moved.
Should I repair for $7,000 or replace for $14,000 if I am selling in two or three years?
If the repair makes the driveway safe and tidy, the $7,000 option usually makes more sense for a two or three year stay. You keep $7,000, and a buyer's inspector looks for trip hazards and drainage, not the age of the concrete. Replacing for $14,000 is worth it only if the repair is a short-term patch on a slab that is breaking up, because a failed patch at sale time looks worse than old concrete.
I have a few long cracks and I am selling the house. Repair, replace or leave it?
Seal them and leave the slab, in most cases. Long cracks that are tight and level are normal in older concrete and rarely worry a buyer once they are cleaned and sealed. Replace only the panels with a height difference or a drainage problem, because those end up on the inspection report.
One contractor says remove it and another says pour a new layer over it. Who is right?
Usually the one who says remove it. A new layer over the top inherits the old slab's cracks, joints and soft spots, and it raises the height at the garage and the street. The overlay answer is right only when the old slab is solid, drains well and there is room to go up. Ask each contractor what they found under and around the slab, not just on top.
My 30-year-old driveway has root cracks and I am on a tight budget. Can I grind and patch?
Yes, on a tight budget grinding the raised edges and sealing the cracks is a reasonable holding repair. It removes the trip points and slows water getting in. It does not stop the roots, so expect to do it again in a few years. Put the money you save toward replacing the worst panels later, with the root dealt with at that time.
I have many small cracks but no sinking. Is sealing or resurfacing enough?
Sealing or resurfacing is enough when the cracks are fine, the slab is level and the surface is still hard. Sealing keeps our long wet season out of the cracks. Resurfacing gives a fresh, even look for $3 to $7 per square foot nationally. If the cracks form a tight map pattern and the surface is soft or dusty, the top layer is weak and a resurfacer may not bond for long.
The real number for your property comes from a free visit with a tape measure. Call (360) 995-1179 or text us a photo of the area.